Site last updated: January 15, 2006 6:35 PM


The new Revo, bringing back 'Fun' into the rc racing :-)

 

First hop-ups on the Revo


Mod 1
First grind off the steering stops (not shown) and then use your mad dremel skilz <mds> to notch the arm as shown to get that little extra turning you may need.

Note: I removed the two stock steerig servos and installed one Airtronics 358 instead
Note: Replace the stock steering arm with a longer one.


Mod 2
I relocated the throttle/brake servo and used Associated post to mount it. I cut the bottoms of the post so the servo would set flat.

Note: I replaced the stock servo with a Air 358 here too.


A minor mode to the linkage and everything works sweet. That is a Team Losi servo horn shown.

I removed the box that held the old servo and did away with the reversing servo. I installed a forward only gear kit in the tranny and a close ratio shift kit.


I had to mount the return spring on the roll bar.

Some have removed the roll bar and front & rear bumbers to lighten the Revo... I still crash to much and decided to keep them on.

Birds eye view showing the relocated servo. That is a stock Mugen air filter assembly that I glued onto the Revo extension.

Note: I also installed the P2 rocker assembly, put 55w oil in the shocks and increased the springs to orange and gold.

New starter box from Ballistic Batteries, works sweet. Even works better with the larger Revo flywheel.

Note: Removing the electric start eliminates a ton of weight from the Revo and lets the 2.5 engine sing.

Click HERE to see all the pictures of the assembly.

OS .18tz Motor Install

You'll need to hone your Mad Dremel Slilz to complete this mod to install this engine.

First you have to remove the fins from the bottom of the engine case.

The end of the crankshaft needs to be shortened. (Shown here allready cut-off.) A couple of threads need to be removed also.

Test fit your clutch shoes and bell to gauge how much has to be removed.

Here is another pic showing the completed dremel work.

I used a Mugen flywheel nut. I had to dremel the top down to where the threads ended.

Test fit your clutch bell assembly so that it just clears the flywheel.

How custom do you need to get? The throttle arm on the carb is too short to catch the Revo assembly. I used the dremel on a button head bolt made my own.

Note: I used a drop of blue locktite to secure it.

Finished assembly ready for install in the Revo...

almost...

skip this picture

Even with all the grinding and fitting on the crankshaft, the clutch bell teeth still hit the pressure plate on the slipper.

Mad Dremel Skilz fixed the problem.

This is a good picture showing the gear mess now working without binding.

Now that is a custom throttle connection.

Note: you have to move the pivot to the outside hole to avoid binding the throttle.

You'll need a new exhaust header for the motor. I am using the dynamite one and it seems be working fine.

Editors Note: This motor rips in the Revo, with the stock gearing I can pick the front end up at any speed... way too much fun.

In the interest of keeping our revo class fun. Most of us have decided to run the 2.5 during club races... they still put out enough hp to have a blast racing ...

see ya on the track.

Here is the new Revo Body made by Majestic Bodies website. It is made from 0.60 lexan and
is extremely strong. The wing is made of the same 0.60 material and with stood a ton of abuse
during the day that I was the test monkee. This is the proto-type body and the new ones should
be available soon (by April 1). Tell Chris you saw his body on the mbrc website

New Polished Head on the TZ (note extended chassis)

I moved the battery pack to the front shock tower trying to keep the front end down while excellerating

If it don't go... Chrome It !!!


Looks like the old moto-x style heads from the 70's

Fuel Tank Mod 7-3-05


Original Revo fuel tank. Who has had issues with the 'O' failing? Here is my solution using a Mugen fuel tank.
Hey!! whats with the blurry pic?

Mad dremel skilz required to cut a 1-1/4" slice out of the radio box.

While your at it. You need to cut 1-1/4" from the top and bottom pieces.
Note: the bottom was cut in one piece to keep it solid.


A dab of silicone, some rubber bands and let set over night to cure.

Note: I used a belt sander to smooth and straighten the cuts before glueing.


I cut the tab off of the old tank post on the radio box and inserted a bolt from the bottom.
Note: I drilled a hole in the bottom of the radio box to use a allen wrench to secure the bolt.
Note: I had to grind a smidge off the end of the radio tray to fit the tank.

I did a bit of grinding on the radio box for to allow a smoother bend where the fule line will be.


The completed project...

Clean install :-)


I may raise the tank if I see noticable damage occuring to the bottom.
Or I may just glue a piece of .60 lexan on as a skid plate.

Camber & Toe-in Tool


It's important to adjust the camber and toe-in to get the best performance from your Revo

Aligning the set-up blocks with the edge of the table top to adjust your toe-in.

I set the camber at 1.5 degrees on both the front and rear.

Do the rear just like the front, only use the 2.5 or 3 degree template

A simple set-up board. Notice the hole drilled in the wheel plates for access to the adjustments.

Front toe-out 1 degree.
Rear toe-in 2.5 degree. Use 3 if the back end is too loose.
Camber 1.5 front and rear.

 

 

 


First race with my new Revo. Amarillo - Oct 04


Waco race 1-22-05

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