Site last updated: November 28, 2003 8:51 AM


The new kit, ready to rip the wrapping off and begin wrenching !!

 


Here is what I found when I opened the kit ....
WOWSERS !!! There's alot of parts in there.


I stated the kit by building the diffs.
I used 5k in the front, 7k in the center and 2k in the rear.
Note: Label the diff for future maintenance.
Front
Next you assemble the front end and rear end.
Suspension arms shock towers are connected to the diff housing and makes for easy removal of the complete unit.
Note: Install 3mm spacers under the steering bar to eliminate bump steer.
I have replaced the stock steering arm with a Racers Edge product. It is stronger and has the 3mm shim built into it.		 Rear
The chassis brace attachment on the rear bulkhead is a weak point. It needs to be changed if you upgrade to the one piece
braces.

Center diff with brake assembly.
I have since changed the brakes,
eliminating the blue pads and replaceing the steel brake wheel with fiberglass ones. (Cradock Brakes)
See Hop-Ups below.

Front, rear and center mounted on the chassis.
Mugen now makes solid front/rear chassis braces
that replace the ones shown here.

Next step, assemble the shocks.
I used Losi 35w in the front and 30w in the rear. I use pieces of fuel tubing as groments instead of the kit provided plastic ones.

I add a drop of blue locktite on the screws holding the wing spacers.
Be careful with how you route the wires from the steering servo. They are really close to the brakes. Add foam padding in the radio & battery boxes to protect the electronics.
Lets Go Racing !!!!

Click HERE to see all the pictures of the assembly.

Hop-Ups 11-27-03


Racers Edge shock towers & rear brace.
Front shock tower > BLING
I used the upgraded Mugen aluminum part to mount the new brace to the rear bulkhead.

Rear shock tower > BLING

BLING BLING
Cradock brake pads..
a steal at $9.00 a pair.

Super efficient brake pads resist fuel and oil... no more fade.
I added a rubber washer to shim the first steel brake out to keep the new pad aligned with the groove in the base.
I tweaked the brake arms so they would grab with-out having to pull to far.
Note: I modified the brake linkage on the servo arm. Using a bigger nut and bolt and inserting the bolt from the bottom.

 

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